Our short trip to Kusatsu had come to an end. It was time for one last hearty breakfast before heading back to Tokyo. We had a very special dinner booked and we couldn’t wait for it.
However, once we had arrived at the Naganoharakusatsuguchi train station and waited for a bit, it quickly became clear something was off. There was no train around and people were looking at their phones more than usual. Mind you, this is a tiny and isolated train station, so even the slightest movement is noticeable.
Everything — and I mean every little thing — in Japan works like clockwork. Things and people are on time, and everything happens in a very expected way. We aren’t used to that, but sure appreciate it when visiting Japan as it makes things super smooth.
People started talking and we learned the train was indeed delayed and the worst part was that there was no expected arrival time. Then a notice appeared in the JR website apologizing for the delay. Shortly after, a sign was posted at the station letting everyone know that instead of 13:07, we were now looking at a new departure time: 13:30.
Yes, all of that for 23 minutes. Or, as we call in Portugal, a regular Tuesday.
We arrived in Tokyo via Ueno, so had to make stop in Ginza to leave our stuff at the hotel before heading to the early dinner, which was near our previous hotel in Shinagawa.
At Shinagawa station we headed towards the Kōnan exit and found a park nearby where the kids played around for a bit. At 6pm we had to check in for the dinner and no one wanted to be a minute late.
The special dinner was upon us. It was a traditional Japanese multi-course meal in a Yakatabune. These “Yakatabune” are old houseboats converted to hold dinners for multiple parties that go up the Sumida river and to Tokyo bay.
I first heard about these through a Japanese ex-colleague of mine. She told me these are super popular with groups of coworkers (typically salary men and women) because they are all-you-can-drink. We had been here before in 2018 and it was truly a locals experience, though this time there were more tourists.
There are several companies doing these special dinners, but in both occasions we picked Funasei, which you can book here, and were really happy with the experience. Besides plenty of drinks, we got a wide variety of Japanese food including sashimi, tempura, noodles, a rice dish and dessert. Plus, special dishes and toys for the kids!
As the drinks flow and morsels are had, the sun goes down while the boat goes up the river and under the many bridges in the river. At certain points in the meal, the boat stops for a bit and the crew will invite everyone to go up to the deck.
This is a wonderful opportunity to take in the sights and absorb the contrast between the ultra-modern city and the traditional side of Japan that refuses to die.
The boat ride then turns back and makes a left heading towards the Tokyo bay and Odaiba, where you can appreciate the sheer magnitude and engineering of the Rainbow bridge.
By this point, the meal is almost over and everyone is a bit more than tipsy. The energy is contagious. The views are gorgeous. It’s cold, but bearable. And we just don’t want to leave. Ever.
The crew announces dessert will be served soon and we wake up from this dream-like state.
This is by far one of the best experiences you can have in Tokyo. Though fantastic in it’s own right, it’s the opposite of Robot Restaurant. It’s peaceful, you get to enjoy magnificent views of the city and be outdoors, and the food is actually really good.
Being able to enjoy this with both kids this time was truly special. It’s such a great feeling to be inside a moving vessel while having fun, eating, and drinking. Sitting cozily inside and seeing the city go by outside sounds so simple but it’s wild.
Definitely a must do when in Tokyo; couldn’t recommend it enough.
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