We woke up to the inn hostess knocking at our door. They wanted to know if we were ready for breakfast because they had to clear away the futons from the tatami mat and make space for the table.
We knew breakfast was included and Japanese breakfasts are typically vast and substantial. This one was no different. Diverse in ingredients, temperatures and textures. Fresh, tasty, filling but still light. What a treat — the kids absolutely adored it and so did we.
After this hearty meal it was time to dress our yukatas and enjoy what brought us to Kusatsu in the first place: hot springs. Much like any onsen town, Kusatsu has a varied network of public baths, attractions, and inns that all thrive around these rejuvenating natural hot springs.
There were quite a few bath houses to choose from. Some are only for men or for women, others mixed, while others wouldn’t even allow kids. All of them with varying benefits and temperatures — a few that reached 48 degrees Celsius (or 118.4 F), which were for real pros.
We had taken a look at the options the previous day and, wanting to go as a family, we decided to book a private bath at Ohtaki no Yu. The water was hot alright, but it felt so good to relax for a full hour and not have any other distractions.
Once we were done with the bath and a quick lunch at the only vegetarian restaurant in town — 薬膳茶屋滝見亭 — we chilled back at the inn for a bit drinking a couple of cold Asahi beers.
After a couple of hours we went out the door again to explore the beautiful Sainogawara Park. We stayed there, with out feet in the hot water, until the sun went down.
Walking back to the main square (Yubatake) we started hearing music and seeing people everywhere. It turned out to be the 77th Kusatsu Onsen Thanksgiving Festival, where nowadays people gather together to show appreciation to the onsen.
Festivals like this (matsuri) are very common all over Japan, especially during summer time, but this one felt particularly intimate and familiar. The kids started dancing with the locals, we got a few drinks and some street food, and soon after it was time for the fireworks celebration.
Before we knew it, another completely unplanned and blissful evening was in the books.
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