So far on this epic trip we’d seen pretty much the same places we’ve been to before in Japan. It feels good to go back to a familiar place and see how it’s changed in your absence.
However, on this day we were going to a place we’d never been to before. Well, except in many of our daydreams, of course. This little town had been on our radar for quite a while now, and it sure did not disappoint. That place is Kusatsu.
We’d be in Kusatsu for a couple of days and I didn’t make sense to lug around our big suitcase, so I left the hotel in Shinagawa on my own very early to drop our it at the next hotel we’d be in back in Tokyo. I then grabbed the girls and headed to Ueno where we would catch the train.
At the Ueno station we bought some snacks for the ride and waited for a bit before going down to platform 14. There were a ton of food stalls which made it hard to pick only a few, but we grabbed a nice selection of salads, grilled salmon with some rice, and other fried treats.
We then hopped on the train and there was virtually no one else in our car; only 3 local seniors. Had we gotten on the wrong train? We expected there to be a lot more tourists like us around, but were grateful for such a pure and wholesome experience.
After about 2:30h we arrived at Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi (what a mouthful). From here to Kusatsu, we boarded a JR bus where, once more, we found ourselves as the sole foreigners. The driver was so welcoming and polite. The bus itself was old but spotless. The seats had this magical 80s-like pattern. Lace headrests; need I say more?
Stepping out of the bus in Kusatsu, we could immediately feel the fresh air — not thick and muggy, but pleasant and reinvigorating. Like you could actually be outdoors for more than 2 hours at a time.
We headed to the guest house where we’d booked a room at. The place was called Oyado Yukizumi and the room was traditional style with tatami floors. We were welcomed with tea and a Japanese sweet. The kids put on their colorful fish-themes yukatas and we were ready to explore the town.
Kusatsu, often referred to Kusatsu Onsen, is known for its hot springs and public baths. It has a large public square — Yubatake — where the water is cooled off by moving through numerous wooden channels, to later be used in these publics baths and private ryokans.
There was also a public foot bath where we dipped our toes into. The water was unbearably hot after a few minutes, so we did some more strolling around town before heading back to the main square to grab a bite at Yakitori Shizuka.
We were so happy to finally be here. Kusatsu had been on our list for a quite a while and it immediately surpassed our expectations. It felt like a proper old school onsen place — not polished or modern, but where everyone was just relaxing and having the time of their lives.
It reminded us of why Japan, especially small towns preserved outside the chaos of metropolitan areas, has such a special place in our hearts.
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