mutelife

Eleven hours and forty minutes after having boarded flight Finnair AY 41, we were finally landing at Incheon International Airport, Seoul’s main hub.

We made our way through immigration and entering process swiftly, got our bags, and made it to the train station that is connected to the main terminal. In no time we were en route to Seoul’s main station which had a convenient connection to our subway line.

When we finally emerged from the underground and into the neighborhood we would be staying at, the weather was pleasant. Not too sunny or warm. It was actually kind of gloomy and a light rain was coming down, which felt unexpectedly nice for East Asia in summer.

The family had spent the past day gallivanting around Helsinki and now everyone was starting to regret it. None of us rested properly during the flight and it was only noon something. I don’t have many photos (or memories) of this day, and it’s no wonder why.

Still, we checked into the Airbnb, freshened up a bit, and went out to make most of our first half day in South Korea. The highlights included buying the obligatory T-Money transportation cards, having the best fried chicken we had ever tasted at Kyochon, and sluggishly strolling through the Myeong-dong night market eating all sorts of treats.

Day 2

I couldn’t leave you hanging with only a handful of photos from the first day, so let’s jump straight into day two. And what a day it was!

One by one, we started to lazily wake up and get ready. Nearly as soon as my eyes opened, I was out of the house. Headed back to Seoul Station to get our train tickets to Busan to make sure we all had seats five days later.

Also made a quick stop at CU, a popular convenience store chain in Korea, where I got some breakfast. One item stood above all: Banana Mat Uyu, or Banana Flavored Milk, which also comes in a deliciously fake melon flavor. I’m a sucker for those things.

The plan for the rest of the day was non-existent, but a few people had highly recommended Bukchon Hanok Village so we obliged.

These “villages” are simply residential neighborhoods where traditional Korean houses (or “hanok”) have been preserved or restored, for the pleasure of tourists like us. As you can imagine, some residents aren’t fans of making these areas super popular, but as long as you keep quiet and respect boundaries it’s fine.

Once we stepped out from the subway in Anguk-dong, it was clear this neighborhood was unique, stunning, and we could see why it would attract so many people.

At a certain point we stumbled upon what seemed to be an open house and were invited to go in. It was in fact, Bukchon Hanok Hall, one of the many houses in these traditional areas that are owned by the local government to serve as a museum.

This gave us a chance to see what a hanok is like inside and chat with the volunteers that were inside to learn more about these beautiful homes.

We made a quick stop at The Hanok to eat something, where one lady handled front of house and the kitchen by herself. The space was cozy and beautiful, with an interior garden and lots of mementos around. It felt like something straight out of a Ghibli movie.

The rain has coming down harder and harder, and after evading it for a while under a random awning, we made our way into Ikseon-dong and Ikseon-dong Hanok Village.

As the name would imply, this was also a traditional neighborhood but felt very different from Bukchon. It was less polished, but also felt way more charming and genuine. Restaurants and bars were coming to life, people were out and about, everyone was animated. It felt like a place where old friends meet and where you make new ones.

And this is where our expectations of South Korea began to unravel in the most beautiful way possible. We were anticipating a strict society like in Japan, where the group prevails over the individual in most situations.

What we found was a city that, among its many imperfections, had a soul. It really surprised me how real and alive the city felt — Seoul felt like a place built by people for people.

After adventuring through old parts of Seoul, our intention was to visit Banpo Hangang Park and spend the evening eating treats from nearby convenience stores while enjoying the company of others.

Because of the heavy rains of the past few weeks, however, it was completely flooded. We took the girls to a playground nearby so they could be in their element for a bit.

We spent the last hours of the second day in Gangnam, one of the most vibrant and wealthiest areas in Seoul. We had some more delicious fried chicken and walked around a bunch in awe of all the energy this place emanates.